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The swirls of a feather pen seemed to be his starting point, but the clothes were so much more inventiveâ€”freewheeling and perverseâ€”than calligraphy implies. He seemed completely at home with this collection, starting with a pair of slim, knee-length black dress with deep v-fronts and super extended shoulders. Givenchy. (Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times) It's interesting how many designers this season are doing extreme shouldersâ€”Lagerfeld and Tisci at Givenchy, too I thought of the 1940s: war, hard times, women going to work. But maybe there's another explanation. The sharp shoulder also turned up in Gaultier's jackets and fantastic jersey jumpsuits. Ines de la Fressange, who did a star turn on the runway, wore a black one-shoulder jersey "smoking" dress with an asymmetrical hem, and later a long, body-skimming jersey dress with a cropped tuxedo jacket in white satin. She looked great. Gaultier took things right to the edgeâ€”and without setting off the gong. Those opening dresses, with wide satin panels tracing the v-front, were strange; not like any style, really, out there. Which of course is the point of couture. He worked fished net into the backs of a trench coat, and another kind of lacework ran up the sides of a black high-waisted skirt. The fantasy pieces usually involved a corseted bodysuit, with the back pulled tight up the rear, and some bit of transparent froth splashing over it. There were more (almost) bare bottoms on the runway than at the Crazy Horse. Well, maybe not quite. But you sure don't get much hint of sex these days at the couture, and not much fun, either. 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